Dyeing techniques of the prehistoric Hallstatt-Textiles: analysis, experiments and inspiration for contemporary application
- Nachwachsende Rohstoffe und neue Technologien
Abstract
Hallstatt in Upper Austria is famous for its 7000 years old history of salt production. The condition in the salt mine is ideal to preserve organic material from prehistoric times. Due to the impregnation by salt, the constant climate of the mine and the protection from light, coloured textile fragments survived up to 3500 years. Since 1849, more than 565 textile fragments have been excavated, most of them from the Hallstatt Period (800-400 BC, early Iron Age), some even from the Bronce Age. The fragments are pieces of fabrics with spinning and weaving patterns, but also fine ribbons made of woolen yarns only 0.2 mm thin. The colours of the textiles may have been modified due to copper originating from broken off bronze tips of prehistoric mining tools. From the prehistoric textiles, 68 samples were analysed by high performance liquid chromatography with photo diode array detection (HPLC-PDA), optical microscopy and scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray analysis (SEM-EDX). Several dyes and dye plants were identified, e.g. woad (Isatis tinctoria), saffron (Crocus sativus), species of Rubiaceae and tannins. The yellow dyes apigenin and luetolin could originate e.g. from weld (Reseda luteola) and scentless chamomile (Tripleurospermum inodorum). The use of buckthorn berries (Rhamnus sp.), insect dyes and lichens is also possible, but could not be proven for sure. Element analysis was performed because aluminium, iron and copper could have been used as mordants in the dyeing process. These elements, however, could also originate from the embedding material in the mine and therefore could have modified the original colour shades of the textiles. Wool of four sheep breeds with fleece comparable to the Iron Age sheep was tested during experimental archaeology experiments. Different wool preparation and hand-spinning methods were successfully applied to produce yarns as thin as the prehistoric ones. Dyeing experiments were carried out to reconstruct the colour shades of the original textiles. Woad (Isatis tinctoria) was cultivated at the University of Natural Resources and Life Sciences and processed with traditional methods. Different fermentation vat dyeing techniques were performed with woad and indigo (Indigofera sp.). A broad range of domestic dye plant species was selected based on a literature review, and used to dye reference material. The dyestuff analysis of the reference material helped to improve the interpretation of the dyestuff analysis results from the Hallstatt-Textiles. Three Iron Age ribbons were reproduced to show how they once may have looked like. Each ribbon was made in two possible colour variants, based on the analytical results and a colour comparison of dyed samples with the original Hallstatt ribbons. A short part of each reconstructed ribbon was put into copper solution to demonstrate the colour modifying effect. A major intention of the project was to create links between the cultural heritage of the Hallstatt-Textiles and reflexion in contemporary textile art and design. Inspired by the prehistoric textile fragments, the weaving and dyeing techniques and the archaeological context, students of the University of Applied Art Vienna worked on objects of textile art and textile design.
Project staff
Christian R. Vogl
Ao.Univ.Prof. Dipl.-Ing. Dr.nat.techn. Christian R. Vogl
christian.vogl@boku.ac.at
Tel: +43 1 47654-93312
BOKU Project Leader
01.08.2008 - 31.07.2011
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